Calgary may soon be losing its only year round farmers market. No offence CFM, but when you look at the list of farmers who have not committed to the new location it’s looking like the new spot isn’t going to look much like the current one. I suppose that’s up for debate, but that isn’t the purpose of this post. It’s the impetus.

I’ve been working on a few projects lately – culinary tourism, a new chef’s collaborative, a chef/producer round table – and I’m finding that there are indeed a lot of exciting things going on in our local food movement. What is lacking though is a common vision that all of these efforts can come together under. A broad vision for local sustainable agriculture and how that is integrated into the lives of the people of Alberta. I’ve been trying to think of a way of collecting my thoughts on this but it seems so big I wasn’t sure where to start. How about this then? Let’s start in the future, at a Farmers Market in the not so distant future.

This new market was purpose built to be an efficient space to deliver locally grown and raised products into the hands of urbanites. It is an economic, educational, and social institution. It was designed by a local architect firm and they included many green features like solar power, grey water collection, and recycled materials. It even has a teaching garden on the roof along with a greenhouse that draws warm air off of the bakery. The building was a collaboration between all levels of government and the corporate sector and it was built on land that was sitting idle. It is centrally located and has great public transit access along with ample parking. This is Calgary you know and most people don’t seem to mind parking for a toonie. The market is run by a group of citizens from various backgrounds and also has a vendor advisory group that works with the market to ensure smooth operation.

The first thing that strikes you when you walk into this market is the natural light that streams in. Not being able to experience the outside environment creates a disconnect with the season so the architects added skylights and large windows that actually also support heating and cooling of the space. The stalls are designed for multiuse purposes. Some are occupied by anchor vendors that can operate year round and others are designed for daily use. This gives new farmers an opportunity to get their products to the co-producers while they develop their businesses. Along the outside of the building there is space for outdoor market stands and the atmosphere spills out into the warm summer air during the months when supply is most abundant. In the winter the outdoor space can be used for a skating rink and festivals.

The key to this market is that it is sustainable. It operates as a not for profit and the bulk of its operating expenses come from the seasonal out-of-province fruit and vegetable stand run by the market, its food service industry delivery business, corporate donations, government, and annual fundraisers like the Harvest Dinner. Other income comes from the full list of cooking classes and presentations that are run out of the market’s education centre and demonstration kitchen. During week days the education centre is usually full of school children that get to experience and learn about local food and agriculture. There is also a small amount of money raised in the production kitchen that is booked by vendors and producers to process local ingredients into other products. This means that food that normally may spoil can be turned into jams, sauces, and ready to eat meals to also be sold at the market. Ultimately this keeps the rental costs to the farmers very low and they are able to pass on that savings to the consumer.

This market is a central piece of the province’s new Farmer Development Program. There has been active recruiting for the last few years for the next generation of farmers. A program of education, mentorship, land access, financial support, and marketing options means that new young farmers are producing a variety of new products for consumers. What finally got the program off the ground was escalating health care costs. As part of a way to counteract them, the province recognized that we would have to start to focus on prevention and not just treatment. Eating locally produced, more nutritious foods was just one of the creative ways we started to get healthier as a province.

These new farmers along with the new urban agriculturists now have a province wide system of distribution centres (markets) that can distribute out to smaller community markets. The new market in Calgary in the anchor store that keeps the supply flowing year round and it is part of the other seasonal markets that are being run in mall parking lots, rec centres, and community halls. These markets work together and not against each other and their success it ultimately driven by the citizens of Calgary who clearly want access to good, clean, and fair local foods. They have also clearly shown that they want all Calgarians to eat well so the Market is teaming up with local social groups to bring these same ingredients into the soup kitchens and support facilities. There is a plan to break ground next year on a restaurant next to the market that will help with rehabilitation and reintegration of individuals. They will be given jobs and responsibilities at the restaurant to be overseen by guest chefs from local restaurants and SAIT.

OK, maybe this sounds like a little more than a simple Farmers Market, but that’s what I think a true Farmers Market should be. It should be an institution and an asset to the city and its citizens. It needs to be the link between the rural lands where our food is grown and the people who grow it. We have the opportunity to shape and form what our local food system will look like in the years to come. Is there anything other than water that is more important than food? I’m not sure what will motivate each person to act on a vision like this, but there are thousands of things that can. We just need to find our common grounds, decide that it is important, and then start working towards the realization of our vision.

There are a lot of things going on right now, but the most exciting thing that has happened was an invitation to represent Alberta at the next Canadian Chefs Congress near Duncan BC in 2010. It is my understanding that I will be responsible for an Alberta focused dish as part of a 13 course lunch featuring each province. I was dumbfounded and excited when I got the call and then I realized that I would be cooking for 500 chefs from across Canada! The Chefs Congress is the brainchild of Chef Michael Stadtlander and he was inspired by Terra Madre in 2006 to create the event. Check out the website here and look for me on the Contributing Chefs page.

Here’s an interesting new blog from my friend and organic beef rancher Tim Hoven. I think you will find his comments on the CFM particularly interesting. It’s nice to start hearing more from the vendors. His blog can be found here.

Well, here we go again. Another day another article about Calgary Farmers Market in Fast Forward Weekly. I haven’t seen it yet, but I was interviewed for it so I’m guessing I’ll be getting angry stares again on Friday when I’m doing my weekly shopping. I could have said ‘no comment’ but then those who would like to see me just shut up and mind my own business, those same people who approve of censorship, would have their way. I don’t think the whole story will ever be told about CFM and it has been fascinating to witness the events of the last year.

Since I’ve been writing about the CFM for a while I thought I would try and explain where I’m coming from. The CFM houses the farmers that my businesses spend a majority of our food dollars with. It is these same farmers that feed my family too. I have developed strong relationships with them and they are the ones I have been talking with in trying to figure the best way for consumers (co-producers) to access their farmers and visa versa. They are the ones that have been telling me about the issues at CFM and about their experiences there. They are the ones who now need to decide if the new CFM is worth their substantial investment and if it is still worth being a part of. If they really want to be stuck with the in fighting, back stabbing, mismanagement, politics, and general challenges that come with 80 different business owners trying to make a living together.

I feel I need to reiterate that I feel the CFM has had to do the best it can with what it has got. They alienated Canada Lands with the publicity stunt they pulled last summer, tried to control the press, and then generally pushed away anyone else that might want to be a part of the solution. Add to that Calgary’s real lack of suitable spaces, a downturn in the economy, and a city that seems apathetic about farmers markets and it all adds up to where we are now. Like it or leave it there are some people that have done just about everything they can to make a future for CFM. The challenges they have faced are no one’s fault in particular, but all of our fault for not making access to local, good, clean, and fair food our responsibility. At all levels. Government, the farmers, the co-producers, corporate Calgary – we will not have a sustainable network of accessible farmers markets until we ask for them. Until we make them happen together.

I want to live in a city where this is a priority and part of me thinks we’ll get there someday and the other part of me, the part that has seen the success and failure of CFM, thinks it may never happen. As someone deep in the local movement and who deals with farmers every day it’s just not right to be pessimistic. Every spring seeds are planted with the hope that with some care and attention and a little luck the land will return the favour with food that nourishes those who seek it. Not every year goes as planned and not every crop is as fruitful, but you always plant more seeds the next year. As long as there are people to bring in the harvest and people who support the effort by eating it. Yes, it is my business what happens to my farmers and I’m not the only one who cares about these issues. We just need to keep on planting more seeds.

I’m glad summer is over. I never put all the stress that some people do on our shortest season – the ‘must’ season. Must go on vacation, must get outdoors, must enjoy hot summer days, must eat all those fruits and vegetables that are in season. I’ve had sweet juicy peaches, cherries that put any candy to shame, tender sweet corn, and plums all tangy on the outside and sweet in the middle. They all are way over the top in my opinion. They have to be, look at the competition. As everything bursts into ripeness they vie for the attention of birds and animals, us included, to help with the final step in their circle of life. We are to take the fruit and then spread the seeds over the earth so another cherry tree or corn plant may grow. I don’t mind being a part of that cycle but it’s a little like picking up the prettiest girl with the nicest perfume in a bar. She smells good, but she won’t hang around long before she’s gone.

I like the rest of our year. The cooler nights of fall, the smell of damp leaves, the first snow, long winter nights with friends and a cast iron pot of something simmered for hours, the thaw, the first shoots of spring, the first robin, the first asparagus… I also like pears. I had my first ones from Blush Lane this past week and they reminded me how sophisticated and subtle pears are. They reminded me of the scene in City of Angels when Nicolas Cage (an angel) asks Meg Ryan to describe the taste of a pear. They had hints of nutmeg, cinnamon, and honey but no one flavour existed long enough to evoke the memory of a single flavour and that’s what makes a pear a pear.

While the memory of all those other over the top fruits and vegetables of summer fade, I’m excited that pears hang around a while. Along with the carrots, apples, potatoes, cabbages, turnips, and parsnips. They don’t mind waiting for all the hoopla to pass and then slowly work their way into our mouths and hearts again.

It’s been a few quiet weeks on At the Root, not because nothing has been going on, but because I’m gearing down towards a two week holiday that I really needed months ago. Part of the trip will see me unplugged and at the cottage and the other part I’ll be reveling in all that Montreal and Quebec have to offer. In the mean time I’m going to try to get caught up on some posts.

The weekend of July 4^th was the 3^rd annual Twin Butte Soulfest. We had an invitation from Joe Cunningham (of Scotch Cold Smoking fame) and had missed out on this event the other two years. This year we were able to attend and I think we’ll try to never miss another. Soulfest is a relaxed beer garden/dinner/music festival that is held at the Twin Butte General Store. It draws a wide variety of people from locals to city folk and the food featured many local ingredients prepared by different people from the community. There was smoked bison, a whole roast pig, Joe’s trout off the grill, potato and beef skewers, a bunch of salads, fresh buns, and strawberry rhubarb tarts to finish it all off.

Once dinner had a chance to settle, the bands started playing. First was Carolyn Mark, a saucy songstress with probably a little too much life experience under her belt. Her lyrics were fun and sharp and were always backed up by a twinkle in her eye. Joe Cunningham is an accomplished musician and was excited to back her up on drums. Next was Heather Bush and the Uppercuts a great jazzy trio with more of those raised eyebrow lyrics and clever innuendos. I loved these guys and bought their first album called Vice. Then an hour later that scheduled, Cumako took the stage and whipped everyone into a frenzy. The band consists of a percussionist from Venezuela, a saxophonist from Brazil, a flutist from Tokyo, a drummer also from South America and a bass player from Taber. Wow! Their energy had everyone off their feet and not wanting them to stop. If you ever have a chance to see this band, don’t miss the opportunity. Unfortunately, most of our group was ready for bed at midnight so we left before their second set. I also think the party went into the wee hours so next year we’ll camp right at Twin Butte and go for the full experience.

The next morning was egg casseroles, pancakes, more of Joe’s trout, bacon, watermelon, and leftover roast pork. Man the food was good and I know I ate $30 worth of Joe’s trout! After breakfast, there is an afternoon long jam session to ease away the hangovers. Here’s the kicker – tickets were $40 for days!

Did I mention how beautiful it is South of Pincher Creek? We spent a lot of time just looking over at the mountains and admiring the countryside. We thought about heading down to Waterton but Joe told us to avoid the tourists and take a gravel road back to Pincher called Spread Eagle Road. It heads West until you hit a mountain and then twists through the forests that cling to the side of them. Stunning. The road is quite good and we saw everything from badgers to deer to a moose and only three other cars on the entire road. Perfect Sunday drive material.

Soulfest reminded me about what Terra Madre 2008 made so clear. Music is critical to enjoyment of food and life. I hope we can incorporate some of these bands into future editions of LOCAL 101. Thanks to everyone who worked so hard to make Soulfest possible.

I’ve been laying off this story for about a month now. The CFM has been doing a fine job of keeping it in the news with pulling FFWD Weekly and confrontations with FFWD staff and now the announcement of the new location I mentioned back in February. The tough part has been trying to figure out how to tell the story from the vendor’s point of view. I can tell you that no farmers market is perfect but with everything that I’ve seen and heard at CFM there are deeper issues here. Kudos to Lindsey Wallis for continuing to follow the story in FFWD and today she has written further on the issues at the CFM. Check out her piece here.

There are also some interesting comments on the FFWD articles. Whether the points made are right or wrong, let’s hear from the vendors. Let’s hear what they have to say about ponying up tens of thousands more dollars just to reserve a spot in the new CFM, just to keep in business at the CFM. Let’s hear from the public – and not the ones who continue to blame Canada Lands for ‘kicking out’ the CFM and a lack of vision on the part of Calgary. If you want a market in a good location that is well run with a strong focus on farmers and Alberta products then where are you? It’s going to take more than pointing fingers to make that a reality.

I believe the CFM alienated itself from the public and government with its actions over the last year and this has led to a less than ideal location and situation. The CFM was left to figure out a new home all on its own and this is the best they can do. My worst fears are being realized by a new project that will only add to the cost of eating locally and alienate even more potential co-producers. I can’t imagine this is a step towards better access for Calgarians.

One of the issues with vegetables is that there isn’t a lot of money to be made in them. That doesn’t mean that there isn’t an opportunity to control the vegetable market too. This article talks about a new partnership between Monsanto and Dole to develop and market vegetables together. I guess Monsanto fears losing market share to vegetable farmers too. It’s troubling to see the control this company already has over world crops and food and apparently they aren’t done yet. It’s interesting that they are going to develop vegetables that look better and have a longer shelf life. Doesn’t growing and selling locally combined with consumers eating seasonally address this issue? Ultimately the local movement will have to stand in small pockets against a centralized food system. I’m thinking it’s going to take a lot of lawyers to secure those pockets of resistance.

With a little rain and a little luck, Calgary farmers markets should soon be overflowing with great local produce and products. At the Calgary Farmers Market they are working towards a new location and going to summer hours. The CFM will be open Thursdays from 10AM to 4PM starting on July 2^nd. Other area markets are in full swing too. Last week I visited the newly revived Hillhurst-Sunnyside Market. It’s open Wednesdays and I’m sure it will get bigger as the word gets out. Last night I went to my favourite seasonal market at Northlands. This is a good market with some things that you don’t see at the other markets. My favourites there are Buffalo Horn Ranch, Stone Oven Farm breads, Three Sisters Pies, Innisfail Growers, Nobel Farm (can’t wait for their strawberries and field tomatoes), and now Route 40 Soup Company. I was thrilled to see Mark and Lanny there because it means we’ll get a chance to see each other every week! Their soups are all fantastic so go and buy some. I’m lucky to get to the other markets during the summer season, but usually don’t. I have Cochrane, Millarville, and Mackenzie Town on my must check out list this year.

It is critical that we support these seasonal markets rain or shine. This is our producer farm system and it’s where new farms get their start. I find each market has a different vibe and they represent a food system at its finest. A parking lot, a table, a tent, and a farmer with something to sell. With only a handful of dates and hours, the vendors need to see that these markets are worth their while and profitable for them to continue. With a system of markets that covers the entire Calgary area 6 days a week, there’s no excuse for getting out there and celebrating Alberta food.

I had a great conversation with Ester, who was inspired by LOCAL 101, about a new co-operative she is spearheading called Forks in the Road. Her idea is to form connections between farmers and consumers and to facilitate the sales of goods between them. The co-operative will actively seek out suppliers and products and then make them available to the co-operative’s membership through pick up locations and possibly home deliveries. She has a huge vision for what this co-op can become but she needs to get those who would be interested in it involved. She is creating a consumer and farmer driven group that believes in simplified distribution system with as little overhead as possible. Sounds like a good idea. If you are interested in getting more information, or getting involved, please contact Ester at forkscoop (at) gmail (dot) com.

There is an example of what she is planning in Victoria called Food Roots and they run a series of Pocket Markets to bring the products to the community.